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Back on track with two new arrivals

Generations of experience: in 1976 the Boisset family of Burgundy, France, bought the DeLoach winery in the Russian River Valley, often called the “Burgundy of California”. Their DeLoach Heritage Reserve 2016 Californian Chardonnay is now on sale at Burrows Lightbourn

Last week I suggested “other” white wines, but today I will return to Bermuda’s first choice and lead off with two new arrivals.

Sancerre, from Pascal Jolivet, is possibly the most asked for French sauvignon blanc here and now, for the first time, we have stocked two single vineyard wines from this producer of biodynamic wines.

Jolivet Le Grand Chemarin 2015 Sancerre is from a 74-acre hillside vineyard and, like many in France, it has multiple owners.

Pascal owns some of it and this wine is from a small 1.2-acre parcel of his oldest vines. The grapes are hand-picked and then fermented with wild yeasts.

Some winemakers swear by wild yeasts as they give the individual character and sense of place (terroir) to a wine but, like any wild thing, they are unpredictable and hard to tame.

Most winemakers prefer to swear at them and instead choose to go to the “yeast shop” and purchase predictable and easier managed yeasts.

These are even tailored to give the desired flavour profile and many famous and very fine wineries rely on them.

There is nothing wrong with that. The regular Jolivet Sancerre sells for $30.30 and the very limited Le Grand Chemarin 2015 is $48.30.

I will let Wine Enthusiast magazine tell you what they think: “This wine is rich with melon and apricot, and crisp with citrus. Combined, the two elements have created an intense wine that hints at a herbal character and wonderfully ripeness. Drink now. 93/100.”

We also have limited supplies from Le Roc vineyard as Pascal owns five of its 22 acres.

He ferments this juice in used oak barrels (less influence than new), stainless steel tanks and the new rage that is small egg-shaped tanks made of concrete.

As he is into biodynamic and natural practices, it makes sense that his wine is born, or created, like so many of our life forms, from an egg.

There is not room here to discuss this idea that dates back to ancient Roman and Greek times, but it is now understood that the egg shape influences the reflected paths of fast-moving molecules and the chemical reactions that are going on.

This is what Wine Enthusiast has to say about Jolivet 2015 Le Roc Sancerre: “The flinty soil of this vineyard has given a wine that is intense, steely and mineral in texture. Crisp citrus and gooseberry flavours are enmeshed in this spicy and taut wine. Partial ageing in big barrels has added a touch of vanilla while also offering breadth to the palate. 95/100.”

I tasted this wine for the first time this past weekend and can truthfully say that it now ranks as one of those benchmarks that will always be a vivid and clear memory for me. It is outstanding. $48.30.

Could it be that we are seeing a slight drift towards the world’s most popular white wine grape on our island?

A better bet is that more folks are here from overseas and that is why chardonnay is having a very good time this summer.

We are aware of the pressure on grape prices, yearly duty increases here and other factors have made it difficult to have many wines on the shelf that meet the desirable Monday to Thursday price tag of under $20.

Recently, we were discussing this with one of our suppliers and they agreed to decrease their price a bit if we increased the size of our order considerably. I would like to tell you about a new arrival that is yours for $19.70, which is about a $3.50 savings.

DeLoach Heritage Reserve 2016 Californian Chardonnay is from the Boisset family with generations of winemaking experience in Burgundy.

In 1975 they purchased the DeLoach winery situated in the Russian River Valley, an area often called “the Burgundy of California”.

They ferment the grapes for this wine in stainless steel to preserve the natural crispness and fresh fruit flavours.

The winemakers then blend in a small amount of richly textured barrel-fermented chardonnay to attain the balance of this approachable, fruit-forward wine that is appealing both at the dinner table and al fresco.

It opens with floral aromas of orange blossom and green fig with herbaceous undertones.

Tropical flavours of papaya and mango blend with luscious vanilla and a touch of lemon grass, leading to a round mouth feel and well-balanced wine. Part of our DeLoach package deal is also a cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir, both for $19.70.

This column is an advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. E-mail mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn has stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). Visit www.wineonline.bm