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For the love of your leaping wines

Fine job: Bermudian David Butterfield, founder of Discovery Wines, now lives in Burgundy and pursues his dream of making wine in that region of France (File photograph)

A 79-year-old schoolmate of mine will celebrate his twentieth birthday tomorrow. Yes, he was born in 1940, a Leap Year.Anyway, as we compensate for our planet taking 365.24219 days to circle its sun, I am thinking of appropriate Leap Day wines.The Stags’ Leap 1,200-acre AVA in Napa Valley is an obvious choice, but I have recently written about quite a few of these enchanting wines.Even though I would love to tell the story of a young Indian maiden waking from a dream to see a giant stag leap from one rock precipice to another, or the other one that claims that this animal escaped from a hunting party with a similar jump, I will not repeat myself now.Instead, I will take you to the Burgundy region of France where they have “muris saltus” or mice leaping.As in Napa Valley, there are two versions of the tale.One tells us that Roman soldiers based in France noticed that mice would leap across a cold stream below their fort, to avoid the frigid water.Another version tells us that the pinot noir and chardonnay vines were planted so close that a mouse could leap from one to another. Muris Saltus became the village of Meursault and a commune of vineyards around it.Ninety-five per cent of its wine is chardonnay and the rest is a rather rare red, made from pinot noir. We do not stock this.The easiest way to compare Meursault with its southern neighbour, puligny-Montrachet is to say that it is richer, more full-bodied and buttery.For me, it is the perfect wine to accompany Bermuda lobster and other rich dishes.David Butterfield, founder of Discovery Wines, now lives in Burgundy and pursues his dream of making fine Burgundy.I will quote him: “In the case of Meursault, the grape variety is chardonnay, but for us, this wine is, above all, a Meursault. It is important that the energy of the lieux-dits comes through in the wine, otherwise, there is no point.” He also talks about telluric forces and how these electric currents flowing on and beneath the soil, add such diversity to the wines of Burgundy.They are partly caused by electromagnetic waves from space and moving charged masses in the ionosphere.Meursault was the very first wine that I tasted with David some years ago and he really does a fine job with it as he avoids manipulation and just lets the vintage express itself.If I can be forgiven for such a non-technical description, I would say that this wine is warm, friendly and just delicious. David puts it this way when he describes his Butterfield 2017 Meursault: “Pale gold in colour, a discreet, yet chic, first impression gives way to fresh hazelnut and nasturtium and a fundamental sense of the presence of energy.“Memories of rose sapwood, elderberry and vineyard (wild) peach line the palette to start, ending with the force of minerality and white pepper. An underlying salinity helps to encourage a long and fresh finish, a signature of the 2017 vintage. Will go very well with all fresh fish either raw or cooked.” $72.85.There are nineteen premiers crus in Meursault and possibly Les Charmes is the best known. We also stock Butterfield 2017 Les Charmes Meursault 1er Cru.Here is how our Bermudian winemaker describes his wine: “A bright yellow gold. At first we perceive bamboo, typical of the land of Meursault Charmes, layered in subtle aromas of light chocolate and vanilla. More subtle, still, we find aromas of white tobacco, strawberry, mint leaves and spices with a hint of oak.“The palate is full and precise at the same time. Graceful, reminiscent of a fresh summer bouquet and umami. Long, powerful, complete, very well suited to the vintage. Give it time to open in the glass and accompany with roasted salmon.” $111.Drouhin 2017 Meursault gets the following from Wine Spectator magazine: “93/100. Fresh and elegant, this white delivers peach, lemon cake, floral and spice aromas and flavours. Harmonious and ready to enjoy, but should develop well. Drink now through 2025.” $64.Veronique Drouhin says this about her 2017 Meursault les Charmes: “The body is round without being heavy; the acidity is well integrated and is never biting. The texture feels like silk, without the alcohol ever being dominant. The wine develops on the palate and opens up fully until the very long aftertaste brings back some of the precious aromas felt in the bouquet: almond paste and hot brioche.” $110.15.Christophe Violot-Guillemard 2017 Meursault Les Vignes Blanches, or it may be easier to just ask for our stock number 7750, is a classic Meursault with aromas of pear, grapefruit, peach, acacia, vanilla and bread dough. One writer claims that it is “absolument fabuleux avec des escargot”.If you would prefer to leave the snails in the garden, then let me suggest salmon or tuna. $62.25.Usually, I stay away from creamy or strong cheese with wine, but Meursault has a mind of its own and would not be offended by a fine Brie or even Roquefort and blue cheese.Why not take the stags’ or mouse’s leap on the 29th? Better still, a fine Stags’ Leap cabernet sauvignon and a bottle of Meursault. •This column is an advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. E-mail mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn has stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George (York Street, 297-0409). Visit www.wineonline.bm